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Leading Pakistani couturier Rizwan Beyg on why he would rather work on the shalwar-kameez than the little black dress
Theres a touch of the maverick in Pakistani designer Rizwan Beyg. Dressed in black Pathani shalwar-kurta and sporting his trademark stubble and thick glasses,he answers questions even before you have finished with them,dismisses trends as fancies of a moneyed elite and emphasizes how fashion is still far from being mainstream. Even before the leading Karachi-based designer landed in Delhi for his first ever exhibition in India,talks of his collaboration with Sanjay Leela Bhansali for doing the costumes for his upcoming project Heera-Mandi had been doing the rounds,but Beyg is emphatic in his denial. My uncle is his script-writer and thats how the whole thing came up. The film is based in Lahore,so Sanjay felt that I would have a better understanding of the cultural connotation,but its not happening as of now, he says,flopping down on a comfortable sofa in Ogaan,in Hauz Khaus Village,where he is exhibiting a limited number of his ensembles for a week.
Films,in general,though,he says,does not excite him as much as working on collections that draws from local traditions. How does a little black dress work in a country like ours or yours? I want to export the shalwar-kameez to the West,work with our Phulkari shawls and the Bhagalpuri silks,make it work for the middle-class,but contemporanise it in a way that it blends in a global setting. Fashion is no longer about the elite having access to it. Its about making the middle-class aspire to have a distinctive style of their own, he says.
Despite his concern for the middle-class though,contrarily he pitches for the more expensive,flamboyant couture,than the easy-to-sell-pret that has come to be such an essential part of the global fashion world. His clothes on display are rich in embroidery and block prints,and have versatile cuts that lend them easily to glamourous evening outs. Pret sells in the West because they dont have a tradition of hand crafting,like we do. Mass production is easy when you have access to good machines and people who are adept at using them. Handicraft takes a lot more than that. In a way,thats what makes the fashion of the sub-continent so luxurious and fascinating, he shrugs.
One of Pakistans leading contemporary designers,Beyg has shown his work across the world,including on the runways of Milan Fashion Week last year. In India,he says,his plans are to exchange notes with friends Tarun Tahiliani and Rohit Bal for a more fruitful cross-border association,and explore retailing opportunities in the country. I love the utterly gorgeous way they approach fashion. Theres a lot we can do together, he says.
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