Rooted in Fashion

When she first visited Bhutan five years ago,Ritu Kumar was a keen tourist. Since then,the designer has visited the country several times — be it for a literary festival or as a designer and guest of the Bhutanese royalty. But nothing,she admits,comes close to her most recent experience where she showcased a special Bhutan-inspired line to mark the opening of the Royal Textile Academy. This state-of-the-art museum was inaugurated on June 7 in Thimpu as part of an event with the royal family of Bhutan and other dignitaries in attendance.

Kumar,who is also a Padma Shri awardee,recalls how she was approached to design a line to celebrate the launch of the museum. “With every visit to Bhutan,I have grown more fascinated with their culture. Particularly interesting is the fact that they stress so much upon their national attire. In a culture devoid of jeans and shirts,it is their dress code of kira (an ankle-length dress) and toego (a long-sleeved jacket-like garment) that prevails. Their repertoire of colours and handwoven fabrics makes their ensembles all the more appealing,” says Kumar,who also sought inspiration in Bhutanese Tangkhas,prayer flags and handloomed weaves from the country’s remote regions. “Working with Benaras silks,woven crepes,woollens and even jerseys,my idea was to come up with a line that draws from the ethos of the country. Their nature as well as their culture — from the embroidery and colours to the Buddhist imagery — found voice in my creations,” she explains,adding that even the accessories used in the show were handmade.

While visiting and reading up on the country helped translate her vision onto the canvas of the Bhutan-inspired line of tunics,jackets and skirts,her chanderi collection is,in her words,‘a long overdue project’. “At a time when collections are rated depending on their commercial viability,we follow a policy of doing at least one line a year that celebrates a region’s rich culture This line is an ode to the textile heritage of Chanderi,a village in Madhya Pradesh,” says Kumar.

The saris have round ashrafi motifs in dull antique gold,embroidered with the traditional aari technique of Bengal,even as the colours borrow from a varied palate,ranging from deep lime yellow and lime greens to coral,tangy yellow and burnt orange. “These saris have enjoyed the patronage of the erstwhile royal families of Maheshwar and Gwalior,but I want their appeal to go beyond that,” adds Kumar.