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This is an archive article published on September 13, 2011

BreadWinners

Rohini Ram loves the smell of bread drifting out of a bakery. She often finds herself lingering around the counter,eyeing whole wheat,whole grain and pumpernickel rye.

special bread stores In India still face tough competition from the humble loaf made from maida

Rohini Ram loves the smell of bread drifting out of a bakery. She often finds herself lingering around the counter,eyeing whole wheat,whole grain and pumpernickel rye. “There’s something romantic and healthy about the whiff of freshly baked bread,” says Ram,who works as a producer with a radio channel. “It falls in the same category as the scent of the earth after the first rains.”

short article insert But when it comes to the toast she eats with her morning cup of tea,she can’t be bothered to drive all the way to the bakery. Except for a period of two years of following a strict fitness regime,when she switched to brown bread,she has always loved the white bread. “I know that regular bread is supposed to be unhealthy. But it hasn’t killed me yet,so I don’t see why I should stop eating it.”

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Over the last several years,Indians have grown fonder of bread. This love affair is triggered by a wide variety of breads made available by neighbourhood bakeries as well as special ones meant for those finicky about what kind of loaf they eat. For instance: Mumbai’s Le Pain Quotidien (LPQ) has breads made from rye,five-grains,organic wheat bread,while Chandigarh Baking Company (CBC) of JW Marriott,Chandigarh,too has several multi-grain options . Bread companies like Britannia and Wibs,who are into mass production,may not compete with these bakeries in terms of variety,but they have started making whole grain and brown breads,apart from the regular white bread. And these are available for less than Rs 25.

In Pune,at The Patio in Aundh,the multi-grain bread is the fastest seller. “There is no price difference between the white,brown and multi-grain. People are making consious efforts to eat healthy and thus they choose the multi-grain,” says Jai Patel,owner. “Plus,we are located right opposite two gyms and we have been getting suggestions to make bread with low gluten content. We are even experimenting with multi-grain cookies and muffins,” he adds.

Yet,the availability of “healthier options” isn’t keeping people away from the humble white bread that most Indians have grown up eating for breakfast. “That the whole wheat bread’s high-fibre content is a healthy option is known to all. But competing with the mass-produced maida bread is a tough task,” feels Tanbir Chahal,a Chandigarh-based catering consultant who owns The Good Earth Bakery. “There’s a lack of awareness about the difference between the white and brown breads,and a healthier whole-wheat bread. Unfortunately,the lower price normally wins,” he says.

Mass-produced bread is cheaper — around Rs 16 for Wibs White Bread to Rs 20 for Britannia’s white bread. But special stores like LPQ in Mumbai and CBC in Chandigarh price their breads at Rs 100 and above,with their eyes on connoisseurs and health freaks.

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However,price isn’t always a deciding factor,it’s the shelf life of fresh breads that matters more. At The Good Earth Bakery,the brown bread is made with a simple recipe using whole wheat,sugar,yeast,water and salt without any preservatives. This reduces its shelf life considerably. On the other hand,the bakeries into mass production use preservatives,making their product last anywhere between four days and a week.

The LPQ breads are baked daily through a process that takes 7-8 hours. “At five degrees and below,it can be kept for two days. As the breads are made from sour dough,the faster they are consumed,the better,” says Alain Coumont,Founder,LPQ.

For Britannia,one of the biggest players in the market whose major chunk of sales come from their white bread,practising their “Eat Healthy,Live Better” motto is something they take very seriously. “Our breads are meant for the common man,and we have fortified them with vitamins to maintain the quality. So the bulk of our sale comprises this vitamin-rich everyday white bread,” says a company spokesperson.

While nutritionists continue to advocate the importance of high-fibre,whole-grain breads,they also believe that fortification in the mass-produced options isn’t really a bad thing; thus breaking the myth that white bread is an evil option. “You have to look at the packet to check the ingredients,” says Vishaka Shivdasani,a Mumbai-based nutritionist. “If it’s been fortified with vitamins,minerals and iron,then it’s healthier than the others that aren’t.”

(With inputs from Jagmeeta Thind Joy and Tora Agarwala)


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