Rohit Gandhi And Rahul Khanna On The Changing Face Of Couture

As the idea of couture evolves and lends a new language to luxury and fashion, we asked the designer duo about their latest collection and how much the industry has changed since they started.

How has the concept of couture changed in today’s market?

In today’s market, the idea of couture has undergone significant changes. In the past, couture referred to high-end, custom-made clothing items created by skilled artisans, often featuring intricate handiwork and luxurious materials. However, as we live in a fast-paced, digital age, couture has evolved to include a wider range of styles and techniques. Nowadays, couture designers incorporate modern elements, experimental designs, and innovative technologies while still focusing on craftsmanship and artistry. This shifting definition of couture has opened up new avenues of creativity, allowing designers to cater to a more diverse clientele.

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna recently presented ‘Equinox’ at India Couture Week

Tell us a little about how your latest collection came to be.

When we started working on our collection, we initially started discussing balance, time, and occasions (day and night) one could wear our garments. We want our pieces to have a good balance so that one can wear them multiple times and not just once. The idea is to create couture pieces that are a perfect balance of being couture enough and at the same can be worn on other occasions. During this discussion, we came up with Equinox. It’s a phenomenon where the sun lines up with the earth to make day and night equal halves. The concept just went with our thought process. This collection marries faith and fable with architecture and craft to birth an equally balanced collection. 

Equinox featured mesmerising patterns and 3D embroidery techniques

Why is there a particular focus on the revival of Indian weaves and craftsmanship? 

The focus on the revival of Indian weaves and craftsmanship can be attributed to several factors. One is a growing appreciation for the cultural heritage and authenticity that these techniques bring to fashion. As consumers become more conscious about sustainable and ethical choices, there is a renewed interest in handcrafted pieces that promote local artisans and preserve traditional skills. Designers are increasingly collaborating with skilled artisans to create unique and intricate pieces that stand out in a global market. This revival will likely continue as designers and consumers recognise the value of preserving these heritage techniques, creating a harmonious blend of modernity and tradition.

Does travel play an integral part in your design process?

Our love for travel has greatly influenced our design sensibilities. We find inspiration in the diverse cultures, landscapes, and architecture we encounter during our trips. The unique colours, textures, and patterns we see on our travels often make their way into our collections. Our explorations of different parts of the world have broadened our perspective and fueled our creativity. Meeting people from various backgrounds and admiring their unique styles has also impacted our understanding of global fashion trends and aesthetics. Ultimately, travel has encouraged us to think outside the box and experiment with fresh concepts and designs.

Have you endeavoured to imbibe the concept of slow fashion at your atelier?

Absolutely, we believe in promoting the concept of slow fashion within our label. Our approach focuses on creating timeless pieces that are not confined to fleeting trends. We encourage our clients to invest in pieces that can be worn repeatedly, showcasing their versatility and enduring appeal. By utilising traditional craftsmanship and high-quality materials, we ensure that our creations withstand the test of time. We advocate for mindful consumption and celebrate the art of craftsmanship, fostering a deeper connection between the wearer and the garment. Slow fashion aligns with our commitment to sustainability and the longevity of our designs.

If you could recommend a city to someone who has a keen interest in India’s textile heritage, what would it be? 

Varanasi, also known as Banaras, is a city we highly recommend exploring to understand India’s rich textile heritage. Renowned for its exquisite silk weavings, traditional brocades, and intricate handwoven fabrics, Varanasi offers a captivating insight into India’s centuries-old textile traditions. The city’s bustling markets and workshops showcase the craftsmanship of skilled artisans who have passed down their techniques through generations. From vibrant sarees to opulent textiles used in ceremonies, Varanasi encapsulates the essence of Indian textile artistry and cultural heritage.

Varanasi is famous for its handloom Benarasi saree . Picture: Shutterstock/clickedbynishant

You have been in the business for 25 years now. What is the most significant change you have seen or hope to see in the future?

Over the past 25 years, one of the biggest changes we have witnessed is the transformation of fashion into a global industry driven by digital platforms and social media. The reach and impact of fashion have expanded exponentially, allowing designers to connect with a global audience and break geographical boundaries. We hope to see a continued emphasis on sustainability, ethical practices, and conscious consumption. The fashion industry has a powerful role to play in promoting environmental responsibility and supporting local artisans. We also anticipate a greater integration of technology, innovation, and traditional craftsmanship, leading to the creation of truly unique and impactful designs that resonate with both current and future generations.