On my first visit to Kashmir: A ticket to heaven

Srinagar

Srinagar city serves as the central point with major attractions like Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Yousmarg etc.

In Srinagar, gardens like Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi take you to the royal landscapes of Mughal era. However nothing can beat Shikara ride in Dal Lake.

DAL LAKE | This lake is the heart of Kashmir visit which will leave you mesmerised (Source: Divya Goyal)

PAHALGAM | When it’s raining (Source: Divya Goyal)

Nishat Garden (Source: Divya Goyal)

This lake is the heart of Kashmir visit which will leave you mesmerised. A floating Post office – the only one in India – stands witness to the legacy of Dal Lake along with a floating market. From seeds of black roses to miniature wooden Shikara boats, you can buy some interesting Kashmir special stuff with a lot of bargaining. The grandeur of Dal Lake lies in majestic mountains opposite the lake also housing the Pari Mahal and Botanical Garden. Pari Mahal offers a grand view of Dal Lake from its top. For the shopaholics, Lal Chowk market is the perfect stop to roam around in the evenings. Book your date with Dal Lake for an evening as floating shikaras with sunset in backdrop will make you realise why Srinagar is indeed the heart of Kashmir.

Yousmarg

Yousmarg is one of the most peaceful places to visit in Kashmir (Source: Divya Goyal)

Through the apple and apricot orchards and scenic lakes, Yousmarg is one of the most peaceful places to visit in Kashmir. On the way, apple laden trees will convince you to take multiple halts and peep into the orchards. A picturesque valley, Yousmarg is a place where you can sit quietly for hours under chinar and deodar trees. Hire a horse for not more than Rs 700-800 and visit Doodhganga- banks of a small river uphill with waters as white as milk.
Pahalgam

Visit Betaab Valley in Pahalgam – where Sunny Deol starrer ‘Betaab’ was shot and you would feel like never coming back.

This place can be your best memory in the entire Kashmir trip. The sound of crystal clear blue water touching the rocks and hills gleaming like gold will follow you throughout your road trip in Pahalgam. There is not a single point where waters stop following you. If that is not enough, visit Betaab Valley- where Sunny Deol starrer ‘Betaab’ was shot and you would feel like never coming back. Green waters of Betaab with snow-clad peaks of Amarnath shrine in the background is like a dream. With its separate taxi union, you have to hire taxi from Pahlagam taxi stand for visiting Betaab valley, Aru valley, Chandanwari etc. Lidder river banks are equally mesmerising.

35 kms from the holy cave of Amarnath, Chandanwari is known for its ice glacier which however has turned brown from white due to human settlements. One can visit Chandanwari and enjoy a cuppa and snacks at small cafes aside glacier but if you are on a short trip and time is gold, then Chandanwari can be skipped. Betaab valley is a must.

On the way to Chandanwari, among the multiple breathtaking views is the one where three water streams converge at a point. Also, the view of Betaab valley while on way to Chandanwari is to die for.

Gulmarg

Gulmarg (Source: Divya Goyal)

Valley of flowers – is what I will describe Gulmarg as. If you are visiting Gulmarg in non-snowing season, like me, blossoms in purple and white with misty hills and chinars in background will take your heart away. It is the only place where you can feel a little chilled so a light warmer, shawl or jacket will help. Gondala ride- world’s second highest cable car works in two phases. You can book your tickets in advance on government website instead of falling in net of guides there.

If an adventure buff, you will love the snow on phase 2 which however requires a lot of hard work to climb the slippery rocks and mini heart attacks. If not, you can enjoy ride till phase 1. On the downhill are the two must visit places- a small church in Gulmarg valley is where the opening shot of Yash Chopra’s ‘Jab Tak Hai Jaan’ was shot. The church offers a 360 degree view of Gulmarg valley. Either hire a horse or take your vehicle through pucca route to reach the church. Also nearby is a small Rani Temple which the last Kashmir ruler Raja Hari Singh built in memory of his wife.

Food, dhabas and saffron

Being a Punjabi, you cannot live without desi food for long. Don’t worry because a hub of Punjabi dhabas like ‘Punjab Di Rasoi’, ‘Dilli Kitchen’, ‘Krishna Dhaba’ etc offer sumptuous Punjabi north Indian food near Dal Lake. While Kashmir special food is a paradise for non-veg lovers, if you are a veggie like me- the best deal is to go for special Rajma chawal and Kashmiri Dosa- the best Kashmir street food. You can cherish Rajma rice in Kashmiri flavors while Kashmiri pulav loaded with dry fruits is a must-try for people with sweet tooth. Instead of buying saffron from markets, head to village Pampore, known for saffron farming and get pure saffron from farmers straight from the fields.

Kashmir special Rajma chawal and Kashmiri Dosa (Source: Divya Goyal)

People

On foot, me and my friend lost our way while coming back from a church in Gulmarg. It was almost 8 pm and the valley was quiet with the footsteps of just two of us breaking the silence and a few grazing animals. An old uncle, driving his Maruti and sporting a skull cap- proved to be messiah and dropped us back. “Are you children mad? Roaming in the valley at this hour on foot,” he chided us in a fatherly tone. Our taxi driver on tour- Nazir- was equally helpful along with some Punjabis- Balwinder and Sonu- we met there and they helped us cross the swampy muddy patches in valleys. Please carry proper shoes with hard sole in Kashmir.

Kashmir is never going to disappoint you. It is a lot more than blasts, blood and terrorism.