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Did you know kadhi wasn’t always made with besan? Here’s the untold story of this classic dish

Kadhi, the sour yoghurt and gram flour curry, has travelled deliciously across India, with each region contributing its own unique spin.

The tangy, refreshing and comforting curry known as kadhi holds a special place in the heart of many Indians. But, did you know that its origins trace back centuries? 

A savoury yoghurt-based dish tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and an aromatic melange of spices, kadhi exemplifies the ingenuity and resourcefulness of Indian cooking. 

The origins of kadhi

Kanikka Malhotra, consultant dietician and certified diabetes educator says, “Historical evidence suggests that kadhi originated in Rajasthan, India’s desert regions. This makes sense because Rajasthan has a paucity of water, thus residents have traditionally used a lot of milk products. Buttermilk, a vital element in kadhi, was easily obtained after churning milk into butter.” 

Head chef and restaurant consultant Tarveen Kaur, tells indianexpress.com, “Historical texts and Ayurveda emphasise the use of yoghurt (dahi) as a cooling agent, aiding digestion and balancing body heat. The practice of thickening gravies with gram flour (besan) emerged as a means to enhance the nutritional value and shelf life of dishes.”

“While Punjabis are well known for their fondness of kadhi-chawal (kadhi with rice), many believe Rajasthan is the original birthplace. There is also a suggestion that older versions used makki ka atta (corn flour) rather than besan (gram flour), which is more frequent today,” Malhotra adds. Unfortunately, determining the actual date of kadhi’s creation is challenging, she admits. 

The evolution of the recipe and preparation method for kadhi

Chef Tarveen explains that the fundamental ingredients of kadhi– yoghurt, besan, and spices — have remained consistent, but the cooking technique has undergone regional modifications. “In its simplest form, kadhi is made by whisking yoghurt with gram flour, tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, dried red chilies, and asafoetida, and simmered to develop its distinct tangy taste.”

Over time, Chef Tarveen mentions that different communities adapted kadhi to suit their local palates. For instance:

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Punjabi Kadhi: Known for its thick, creamy texture, it often includes deep-fried besan dumplings (pakoras) and is enriched with a robust tempering of ghee, cumin, and red chili powder.

Gujarati Kadhi: Lighter in consistency and mildly sweet, thanks to the addition of sugar or jaggery. It incorporates ginger, green chilies, and sometimes ground peanuts.

As kadhi moved north, it adopted the heartiness of Punjabi food. (Source: Freepik)

Rajasthani Kadhi: Spicier, with a thinner base, and often paired with steamed pearl millet (bajra) rotis.

Sindhi Kadhi: Unlike others, it substitutes yogurt with tamarind, creating a more tangy and tomato-based version filled with vegetables.

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Maharashtrian and South Indian Variants: These include “Sol Kadhi” made with coconut milk and kokum and “Mor Kuzhambu” in Tamil Nadu, prepared with buttermilk and coconut paste.

“These are just a few instances; differences exist within each location. Kadhi’s beauty is in its versatility. Home cooks frequently put their own spin on recipes, such as utilising fresh veggies or altering the spice level to their liking. This continual change ensures that kadhi remains a dynamic and popular dish throughout India,” Malhotra explains. 

Cultural or regional significance does kadhi hold in various parts of India

Kadhi is more than just food — it’s an emotion, deeply embedded in the fabric of Indian households, highlights Chef Tarveen. “It is often associated with simplicity and comfort, making it a preferred dish for fasting days or post-festival detox meals. In rural regions, kadhi is a staple during summer due to its cooling properties.”

In some states, she adds that kadhi holds religious and festive importance. “In Gujarat, it is served at weddings and celebrations. In Punjab, it is an integral part of traditional langars (community meals). Meanwhile, in Rajasthan, it complements baati (hard wheat rolls) as a wholesome dish in arid climates.”

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Malhotra cocludes, “It’s a symbol of comfort, tradition, and shared experience, connecting people across generations and regions in the rich tapestry of Indian cuisine.”

Also in this series:

The story behind Sindhi Tikkad and how it transformed to become Dal Pakwan

Jhalmuri: Unpacking the heritage and flavour of Bengal’s beloved street food

A royal dessert that won India’s heart: How Mysore Pak evolved over the years

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How pav bhaji came to represent Mumbai’s colourful street food culture

This iconic tea-time snack represents Hyderabad’s rich history

Chhena Poda: This traditional sweet dish from Odisha is a significant part the region’s culinary heritage

My Express

Swarupa is a Senior Sub Editor for the lifestyle desk at The Indian Express. With a passion for storytelling, she delves into the realms of art & culture, fitness, health, nutrition, psychology, and relationships, empowering her readers with valuable insights. ... Read More


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