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This is an archive article published on November 25, 2006

Catch a Raindrop Flight

The thrill of a sudden downpour. Sweet tea at a dhaba. Shillong allows you to return to life’s simple pleasures

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Ever came across little girls who don’t know what it is like to run up to the terrace when it rains? Or catch water droplets in their tiny palms as they get completely drenched? For most of us living in the northern part of the country, downpours are rather rare but for a place that basks in the glory of being called the wettest place on earth, monsoon is not a one-season phenomenon. It can drop in anytime, maybe in a simple drizzle or a heavy shower, often uninvited. But for the people here, it’s usual fare, just like the sun that wakes them up every morning or the moon that lights up at dusk.

The first thing anybody would ask you to pack if you plan to visit Shillong is an umbrella.

The nearest railroad to Shillong, capital of Meghalaya, between Assam and Bangladesh, ends at Guwahati. The distance from there onwards, some 100km, can be covered by road or by a chopper. But given the spectacular scenic views lined up along the drive, it’s best to hop into a four-wheeler and enjoy the plush green locales that greet you on the way.

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En-route Shillong, it’s a frame-by-frame experience of Tudor-style cottages tucked into the vegetation, churches, tiny waterfalls and pineapple plantations as the roadsides plunged down into deep gorges. Of course, you will be forgiven if you fancy yourself in a little hamlet nestled in one remote area of the Queen’s Land. It was because of its striking similarity to the Scottish Highlands that Shillong was popularly called the Scotland of the East. Till date, the town has managed to live up to its name. Halfway to Shillong, a stopover at Nongpoh is a must. The place houses tiny eateries, roadside vendors selling paan, honey and tea.

A three-hour long drive uphill from Guwahati takes you to Shillong, located 1,496 metres above sea level. The natives, a diverse mix of Khasi, Garo and Jaintia tribes, prefer to converse in their tribal languages or English.

Snow-capped mountains that form the backdrop for popular hill stations like Darjeeling and Shimla are missing here but not to worry, Shillong offers its own waterfalls, magnificent church steeples and tropical forests.

During the late 1800s and early decades of the 1900s, Shillong served as the summer capital for the British officials and homesick ex-pats. With its winding country lanes and wooden cottages, the town was a refuge for members of the East India Company during the hot “Indian summers”. Established in the 1800s by Colonel Henry Hopkinson, an agent of the Governor-General of India, Shillong was made the capital of Meghalaya in 1974.

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Once in the city, a cold breeze coupled with the smell of freshly cut pine welcomes you. Cheerful women, most of them dressed in the traditional gensum, greet you at shops. The Khasis follow a matriarchal society and children take the surname of their mothers.

Some 37 km ahead of Shillong is Cherrapunji, which for long was known as the wettest place on earth, before losing out to Mawsynram, just 30 km away. The place boasts numerous waterfalls, ancient cemeteries and football fields.

Though cricket rules most parts of the country, Shillong swears by football. So much so that almost every few kilometres, you can spot a football field. Archery is another common sport. And though it doesn’t have the socialite crowd that a race course commands, archery is the best betting game here.

The tribal dances of the state are similar to those of any other part in the country but it’s the music or rather rhythmic beats that are worthy of mention. Drums of different shapes and sizes dominate. And the state has recently set the new world record for the biggest drum ensemble with 7,951 drummers playing a synchronised tune by a local composer. After being called the wettest place, Shillong can now surely wake up the neighbours now.

How to get there

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Shillong is 1,181 km from Kolkata. The quickest route to get here is by air, via Guwahati which has the nearest airport, Borjhar. There are frequent trains from Guwahati as well. From here, buses and taxis take about four hours to get to Shillong. Best time to visit, goes without saying, during monsoon.

PLACES TO VISIT AROUND SHILLONG:

Umiam Lake

Sacred Heart Forest (Mawphalng)

Palace of the Jaintia King (Smit)

Thudlusken Lake (Jowai)

Monoliths in Nartiang

Hot springs in Jakrem

Live Root Bridge near Cherrapunji

Bangladesh Border (Dawki)

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