Food light on pocket and the stomach too

VADODARA, APRIL 30: Modesty is the best policy.'' Some word in the adage has been changed, one might feel. But not after meeting the part-ow...

VADODARA, APRIL 30: Modesty is the best policy.” Some word in the adage has been changed, one might feel. But not after meeting the part-owner-cum-manager of Cosmopolitan, one of the popular eating joints in the city. Established in 1968, this restaurant located at Fatehgunj is contended in maintaining a low profile, while neighbouring counterparts are busy wooing newer clientele.

Requesting anonymity, the manager says he is not interested in publicity and has no tall claims to make about his restaurant’s success. “We like being this half dead, half alive,” he quips.

For those who frequent Cosmo, the biryanis served here needs no introduction and the limited menu and moderately-priced foodstuffs have made it a favourite haunt of the students.

Story continues below this ad

Jayadev Thakore, a reputed painter and a regular at Cosmo for last 30 years recollects, “The place was modeled around the Irani restaurants of Mumbai, with the polished black wooden chairs and a juke box. Even several Cokes later, not much has changed except the decor and the visitors”.

Besides being one of the oldest restaurants in the area, Cosmo has always represented, in spirit and practice, the peaceful and cosmopolitan nature of the locality where it is situated. Thakore says that the Irani, Thai and other foreign students dominated Cosmo’s early clientele, which was why girls hesitated to frequent the place then.

“Though the prices were never very economical, they were modest enough for the quantity served. Also Cosmo always extended credit to students, especially foreigners, making it feasible for them to eat here,” he adds.

Though with the passage of time students who came here for their daily bread-butter and tea were replaced by families and office-goers, there has been a slight variations in recipes. Even today the food continues to tingle the taste buds of the less spicy and non-greasy food lovers. The non-vegetarian varieties still score over the vegetarian dishes, especially the chicken, mutton and egg biryanis.

Story continues below this ad

But punctuality still matters if one has to eat out here. The shutters come down at 3 p.m. daily and business restarts only by 6.30 p.m. “In this city, we still have to capture’ clients for lunch. Business is brisk only during the evening hours,” explains the owner.

Popular? Yes. Ambitious? No. The familiar droning of five old fans mingles with the conversations across the table. The interiors are tidy yet unglamorous. But no renovation plans are on the cards.

“People eating out here are more bothered about filling their stomachs than sitting in a classy air-conditioned restaurant. Look at the popularity of the larris. Why should I spend unnecessarily on an AC when I can run this place as a good licensed’ larri? Besides, if I spend money on sprucing the place, I have to raise the prices which may mean less customers,” he admits.

For now, keeping the place clean and repa iring the furniture is the only priority. Competition too takes a backseat. Banners announcing discounts adorn other restaurants surrounding Cosmo. “Someday you’ll see my banner reading No Discount’. Whether you order one plate of chicken biryani or 1,000, I’ll still charge Rs 50 per plate,” announces the confident owner.