Foothold on future

Binding the traditional with the contemporary, Kolhapuri chappal artisans tread a makeover path

In a small bylane in the town of Athani near the Maharashtra-Karnataka border, Sadashiv Datta Harale is busy tracing out soles on a sheet of leather. While he cuts out perfect shapes, his wife Savita sits in another corner, weaving thin strips of leather into a stylish braid. Soon enough, the sole and the uppers are put together and a beautiful pair of Kolhapuri chappals takes shape, at once ethnic and contemporary.

“A thousand jodis (pairs) have to go to Belgium next month. Export orders mean good money,” says Harale. Until four years ago, Harale was neck deep in debts, almost a bonded labourer. The influx of cheap yet stylish footwear had edged their traditional art out of business and for more than 200 families, who have handcrafted chappals for the past three centuries, it was a question of survival.

It was then that three organisations — the Asian Centre for Entrepreneurial Initiatives (Ascent), Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI), Chennai and the National Leather Development Programme (NLDP) — came to their rescue. Ascent, a Bangalore-based non-profit organisation, initiated Project EnterPrice in 2000 with sponsorship from the NLDP to help the artisans revive their craft.

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“Athani has been known for its Kolhapuri chappals but over time, their designs and quality hadn’t been able to keep pace with the latest in the footwear market,” says Madhura Chatrapathy, chief facilitator for the project. Soon, self-help groups led by women were set up. In about 18 months, the villagers were able to form sangama, a group of over 15 SHGs that helped the artisans save and lend money to any artisan who needed it.

The artisans recently set up their own enterprise — ToeHold — a signature brand. The ToeHold Artisans Collaborative is perhaps the first grassroots women majority company.

“The CLRI provided technical support to the artisans by way of training them in latest designs…even costing and marketing. Field trips to automated shoe factories were also carried out,” says Anant Mutalik, manager, ToeHold Artisans Collaborative. Harale and his wife went to the International Shoe Fair at Dusseldorf, Germany, this October.

Forty per cent of the profit goes to ToeHold, 40 per cent to the artisans and 20 per cent to their SHGs. Says Maruti Marathe: “Today, we are independent, we don’t work under the seths who used to give us between Rs 5 and Rs 10 for our work. With ToeHold, we earn at least Rs 50 for a single pair of chappals.”

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The company today has touched an export earning of $100,000 from Japan, USA, Europe and even Israel.

Better incomes have led to positive changes in their lives as well. “We send our children to schools. Almost all the houses have electricity, TVs and phone lines. Now we are working for better sanitation and health facilities,” says 62-year-old Vasant Saudagar. His voice rings of the new confidence so unmistakable at Athani.