‘I use India to my advantage’

The toast of London, Manish Arora, now headed for Paris Fashion Week, on the ‘John Galliano of India’ tag and how — and why — he’s raced ahead of other Indian designers

You have been showing in London for the last four seasons, and now you have been invited to Paris. What’s your next big step?
Paris it is. I intend to settle down in Paris, show there consistently, so that people get used to me. I will need to do the usual — find an investor, become a brand there and bring out my line. London, of course, was the perfect base for someone like me. London is very encouraging to new people, especially from India, where we’re not used to international fashion weeks.

There are more than 130 designers who show at India Fashion Week. What do you think makes you the chosen one? What are the combinations that have worked in your favour?
I’m true to my work, honest to what I do. I have used India as an advantage, keeping the international audience in mind. I make extensive use of Indian textiles and weave my own fabrics. I go scouting in Banaras and use block printing and Indian embroidery. I’ve also been promoting Indian pop culture — like the time I used the cover of Cine Blitz magazine on my clothes.

You are one of the few Indian designers to have managed corporate tie-ups. Is that an area of focus for you?
It is the only way to go. You have to link your brand with corporate biggies if you want to reach a worldwide market. After Reebok, I’m now working on a tie-up with Mac Cosmetics. There are more such arrangements in the pipeline.

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Many designers are tagged “repetitive”. But why is it that in your case, the word seems to crop up more often than not?
I’ve never been called that in London, either by buyers or journalists. Over there, the feedback is that I’m getting better with every season. Those who make that criticism here do so without bothering to look at my garments or their detailing.

Yet, a Manish Arora ensemble is instantly recognisable. How do you tread the fine line between repetition and having your unique stamp?
I think I manage to do that because I have a strong style of my own. Even if I design plain clothes, they will look like mine. What I design is straight from my heart, without a thought for the consequences. And no matter what my inspiration, I’ll always give it an Indian twist.

In India, you are also accused of ripping off Alexander McQueen, though London has never made that allegation. What’s your answer to that
If I was ripping off him, why would London invite me season after season?

You are also often called “the John Galliano of India”.
I don’t know why they say that. He’s not even my favourite designer. But maybe that is because in India, I’m the only one who does dramatic, over-the-top stuff. Abroad, every second or third designer is over the top.

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What is your comment on the Indian fashion scene and particularly the fashion weeks?
There is a tendency to dismiss it as a carnival. But it was through the India Fashion Week, that I was invited to show at Paris. However, we are very far away from the international fashion weeks in our way of thinking. We’re still catering to an Indian clientele, but we are improving fast.

What would you say has been the defining moment in your career so far?
I can say there have been several. In London, when Hilary Alexander (fashion director of the Daily Telegraph) came up to me after my first show and said to me, “Not only have you made my day, you’ve made my week.” Since then, she’s always present for all my shows.

So, who is your favourite designer in India and abroad?
In India, I’m a fan of Rajesh Pratap, because he has his individual style; one knows a Pratap design immediately. My international favourite is Balenciaga, because of the way they have make clothes for the new-age woman.

Have you planned what to show at Paris?
Not yet. I’m still searching for an inspiration. It could be anything, from a book, or a movie or on the road, but it has to hit me.