The archaeological evidence of the centuries-old Bonpo religion which became extinct with the advent of Buddhism is well on way to becoming history. Ancient stupas and rare engravings on rocks throwing light on the religion are being gradually but systematically eliminated by government departments and avaricious antique dealers.The religion had a great following in the sixth and seventh centuries in Kinnaur region, particularly in Lahaul-Spiti. Historical evidence on Bonpo can be found either in the Spiti Valley around the 1200-year-old Tabo Monastery or in the Zhang Zhung region of Central Asia. Archaeological evidence signifies that Tabo, Poh and Lari were centres of Bonpo religion prior to Buddhism in the Spiti Valley.While stupas have been used as boulders to raise walls by Himachal government departments, especially the PWD, inscriptions on rocks (petroglyphs) of historic importance are being chiselled away by vendors and sold to foreigners. All this while the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) keeps its eyes shut even as the other conservation agency, the State Language and Culture Department, puts the blame squarely at the ASI’s door.According to historians, more than 140 stone engravings of Bonpo era dotted the surroundings of the Tabo Monastery in the Spiti Valley. The petroglyphs bearing inscriptions in Zhang Zhung language covered subjects as diverse as matter, human beings, animals, birds and trees.Today, the wear and tear has made extraction of inscriptions easy. But no steps have been taken by the authorities to stop this ecological loot.HP University history dept head Prof L. S. Thakur claims to have marked 110 boulders five years ago but during his recent visit, he found more than 50 had been used by PWD for raising walls. He says: ‘‘I had written to the ASI for preservation of the relics but a large number of them were destroyed by the PWD during the Buddhist Kalchakra ceremony in 1996 in Spiti Valley when a large number of rocks were broken and used by government departments. Scarcity of bricks may have made them use these ancient boulders.’’PWD Executive Engineer at Tabo S.S. Rawat says over the phone: ‘‘I know destruction of relics has taken place in the past. We will have to inquire into the matter.’’The destruction of relics had been highlighted by the media when boulders were detonated by the PWD in 1996. The Language and Culture Department had then written to the ASI for preserving the heritage monuments. But there has been no correspondence between the two agencies since.
