In Nagaland, the return of tourists

It was only five years ago that the Union Home Ministry decided to relax the restrictions on the entry of tourists into Nagaland. Already, t...

It was only five years ago that the Union Home Ministry decided to relax the restrictions on the entry of tourists into Nagaland. Already, the hotels in the Naga capital are booked to capacity. The biggest draw is the five-day ‘‘Hornbill Festival’’ held annually, for the last 5 years, from December 1.

There’s a group of five Western backpackers alighting from a bus and proceeding to the travel agent’s office. ‘‘It used to be a rare occurrence, but not anymore. It seems as if it were Manali, Kulu or Kodaikanal,’’ says an oldtimer.

Nagaland may not be half as publicised as Kerala, but eight years of ceasefire between insurgents and the Centre have seen an increase in the number of tourists visiting this North-East Indian state. According to the Department of Home, Nagaland, in 2001, a year after the restrictions were relaxed, 618 Restricted/Protected Area Permits (RAP/PAP) were issued by the state and the Union Home Ministry. This number has been steadily growing — 659 RAP/PAP in 2002, 743 in 2003, 1,086 in 2004, and 414 in 2005 till date.

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According to the Home Ministry regulations, foreigners have to apply for an RAP/PAP well in advance of visiting Nagaland. This permit is issued either to married couples or to people in groups of four or more. However, domestic tourists need to avail of an Inner Line Permit to enter Nagaland. While travel in the state is restricted to Dimapur, Kohima, Mokokchung and Wokha districts it doesn’t seem to deter tourists.

Nagaland is projecting three upcoming events as its main draw this year — the Handicrafts Sale and Exhibition (October 10-15, Dimapur), the Royal Gold Cup Soccer Tournament (November 7-11, Kohima), and the year-end Hornbill Festival held at Kisama near Kohima.

According to K.T. Thomas, assistant director, Department of Tourism, the main attractions here are eco-tourism and culture-based tourism. ‘‘Many Western tourists come here expecting to see the so-called ‘original’ Nagaland, with semi-naked tribals and their customs. What they find is a modernised society. So, at the Hornbill Festival, we give them a flavour of old and new Nagaland,’’ says Thomas.

	Signs of change

			• It was only five years ago the Union Home Ministry decided to relax the restrictions on the entry of foreign tourists in Nagaland. Today its hotels are booked months in advance. • Eight years of ceasefire between insurgents and the Centre have seen an increase in the number of tourists • The state and the Centre issued 618 Restricted/Protected Area Permits (RAP/PAP) in 2001. This number has been steadily growing — 659 RAP/PAP in 2002, 743 in 2003, 1,086 in 2004, and 414 in 2005 till date

Every square-inch of the state seems fit for tourism with its plunging valleys and misty green hills. Spread over 16,527 sq km, 16 out of the 32 tribes and many sub-tribes — that come under the generic term ‘‘Naga’’ — reside in the seven districts. Each tribe has its own distinct culture and lifestyle. At the Naga Heritage Village in Kisama, these 16 tribes have recreated their villages.

Thomas says that there has been a marked rise in the tourists, both foreign and domestic. ‘‘We need more hotels that can cater to international tourists. Today we have only three such hotels in Kohima. In fact, the question is whether we are capable of accommodating all those who wish to come for the Hornbill Festival. The hotels are already booked to capacity.’’

Another important need is investment by the private sector. ‘‘We need better roads, water supply, more flights. The taxi fares are on the higher side. A lot of regulations will have to be brought in to streamline tourism here. Also, the government should start issuing RAP/PAP to individual tourists and even to groups of less than four persons.’’

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The sightseeing attractions in Kohima are: the Kohima War Cemetery (World War II), and the Kohima village or Barra Basti, said to be the second-largest village in Asia. In Dimapur it’s the ruins of the ancient Kacheri kingdom and at Mokokchung, shawls, handicrafts and a glimpse of the Ao Naga tradition.

This is one place where a tourist won’t be starved of choice. So don’t miss out, the whole world is coming to visit!