The Prime Minister may write peace poetry in Manali, but the Chinar seems to be beckoning with poetry of its own. Whether it be to relive old memories or create new ones, people are finally bringing out that more than a decade-old-plan of going to Kashmir.‘‘I had been planning to make the trip for a long time,’’ says Vilas Patankar, 62, a retired civil engineer in Mumbai. He’s been there once before, in 1983, ‘‘but that was in January and there was snow all around. I wanted to see the greenery’’.Television producer Neena Raut, 48, who’s travelled around the world, is another person who’s wanted to visit for a long time. ‘‘I used to feel very bad about not having seen Kashmir.’’ Just back from the Valley, she seems content. ‘‘I like Switzerland, I like the Alps, but Kashmir is more beautiful because it is your own.’’Pune-based Ajit Vaidya, 70, a retired businessman, has been there thrice. This time round, one of his most memorable moments was a pony ride to Khilanmarg. ‘‘When I reached there, I was all alone in this meadow with pine trees and mountains in the background.’’Mountains that may once again resound to newer versions of Deewana hua badal. Jimmy Shergill and newcomer Richa Pahlad already did the rounds of Dal Lake and Gulmarg shooting for Sanjiv Puri’s Agnipankh in April. Now Bollywood’s most romantic director Yash Chopra may also recapture the beauty of his earlier films like Kabhi Kabhi and Silsila. ‘‘I am writing my script and I plan to shoot there in the latter half of the year,’’ says the director who has not shot there in 18 years. Kashmir is a place close to his heart, more so because it is in ‘‘our own country’’ and Chopra says he loves the variety of beautiful locations that the state offers.Who’s Doing What » TCI offers an 8-day Kashmir package on a twin sharing basis for Rs 9,480 while a four-day Srinagar package costs Rs 3,195. » A 3-night/4-day tour for two by Raj Travels costs Rs 12,999. » A 5-day Kashmir package by Sita Travels on a twin sharing basis costs Rs 8,025. » Indian Airlines 6-night Best of Kashmir package for two costs Rs 55,665 and includes return airfares, accommodation, transfers and sightseeing and meals. With the situation improving, most people seem willing to travel, brushing aside security apprehensions. Says Vaidya, ‘‘We’re all senior citizens and thought we would take the chance anyway. If our jawans can risk their lives to guard the borders, ours was a relatively small risk. Besides, we found out that it was safe for tourists,’’ he says. Beautician Netra Jaykar was at Jammu airport waiting to board a flight to Srinagar when she read about the recent killing of 24 Pandits in Kashmir. ‘‘I said nothing doing, I’m still going,’’ she recalls, adding that her tour operator sent a car to the airport despite the curfew. Most tourists come back with reassuring stories, though they all mention the constant military presence every 50 metres, be it in a shikara or in the city. Which is perhaps why many opt for structured arrangements by a tour operator and for going in a group rather than on their own. ‘‘I wanted to go but frankly didn’t have the courage to do it alone,’’ says Raut.Packages by leading tour operators, Indian Airlines, concessions and other initiatives taken by the government seem to be translating into hard figures. Travel Corporation (India), which shut its Srinagar office five years ago, has introduced a couple of packages this year. ‘‘Interest has definitely picked up,’’ says spokeswoman Meher Bhandara.Other operators agree. Sita Travels didn’t even feature J&K as a destination on their brochures last year, while Cox & Kings also say they didn’t get a single query last year. This year, however, the phone hasn’t stopped ringing. At the J&K Tourism office, a smiling Javid Amin, assistant resident commissioner and I/C Jammu & Kashmir Tourism, dials the Srinagar office for the exact figures. ‘‘Ending May 2002—9,008, till end of first week of June, 2002—9,388. Ending May, 2003—23,689, till end of first week of June, 2003— 33,234.’’Srinagar is also abuzz with hotel and houseboat owners cashing on these numbers. The government meanwhile is reviving two USPs to woo tourists: The Gulmarg Gandola Project—a 5-km ropeway at an altitude of 9,000 metres above sea level—and the sprawling 18-hole Royal Springs Golf Course at Srinagar. ‘‘It is a good omen. We are expecting business this time,’’ says Mohammad Ramzan, a shikarawalla, while his colleagues are seen haggling over a boat ride with tourists.‘‘When people go and come back without any untoward incident, they are very comfortable,’’ points out Ajay Seth, general manager, domestic tourism, Cox & Kings. ‘‘Word of mouth is what works, rather than a travel agent telling potential tourists about a destination,’’ agrees Viswajeet Raja Patel of Raja Rani Travels. Which is why though J&K posters may proclaim ‘‘You can’t have enough of it’’, it is a gushing Netra Jaykar’s comment on Srinagar, ‘‘The last day was out of this world, the roses, the flowers, the clouds. Too good!’’ that makes you want to go and walk through the majestic gardens whispering secrets through the centuries and hear the Chinar leaves crackling under your feet.(With inputs from Aishwarya Mavinkurve in Pune and Mufti Islah in Srinagar)
