Remembering Tenzing

I first met Tenzing in 1956, during my basic mountaineering course at the HMI. After reaching the training area in Sikkim, I was charmed by his graceful and effortless strides up and down the slopes. Every one of us was inspired by his presence. He was simple, humble and down to earth. In 1961, I was posted to the HMI on deputation from the Indian Navy. I was thrilled at the opportunity of working with Tenzing and the legendary band of Sherpa instructors. As soon as the monsoon was over, the rush of tourists swelled. During the pooja holidays, thousands of visitors flocked to HMI daily. I observed that HMI was the most popular attraction for all visitors to Darjeeling.

The biggest attraction within HMI was of course Tenzing Norgay himself. In fact, the institute was built around his great Everest success in 1953. He was the main hero on the HMI campus. Whenever Tenzing was in Darjeeling he was mobbed by visitors. Each and every one of them would venture inside his office to shake hands; several others wanted to be photographed with him. He was friendly and at the slightest provocation would switch on his usual broad grin and charming smile. But there is a limit to a man’s stamina. After a while he would get most upset and hide himself. Once I saw him running away from a pestering group of people to the Sherpa Coffee House and from there to my residence.

The group still followed him. ‘‘Bhaiya (brother), they harass me so much, I am like a monkey in the zoo, everyone wants to be photographed with me,’’ he moaned. Well, that was the price of fame Tenzing was paying! Apart from resenting being mobbed, I found Tenzing very friendly, simple and extremely well-mannered. In meeting new people, he would conduct himself marvellously but, after a while, would get restless. He had a fantastic sense of humour and would be in his element at small parties.

His house in the town, with a large sketch-map of Everest on the outside wall, and a museum with all his medals and souvenirs inside, had become quite popular with visitors. I also had an opportunity to meet Daku, Tenzing’s third wife. She was an extremely charming and vivacious lady. Like Tenzing, she always wore an enchanting smile. Before marriage, she used to accompany Tenzing on training courses. During my stay in Darjeeling, I got to know about Tenzing’s early life. He was born at Ghang La in 1914, while his family was on a pilgrimage to Tsa-Chu, in the heart of Sherpa land. The boy was called Namgyal Wangdi but a Lama predicted that the child was destined to fame and advised the parents to change his name to Tenzing Norgay, meaning Wealthy Fortunate Follower of Religion. He migrated to India when he was 13.

After I left Darjeeling, Tenzing and I met quite often at various functions held in Delhi or in Darjeeling and also during the international mountaineering meets which I organised at frequent intervals on behalf of Air India. Tenzing and Daku had four children — Norbu, Jamling, Diki and Dhamey. Norbu, Diki and Dhamey settled down in America. But Jamling, who climbed Everest in 1996, decided to remain in Darjeeling to continue to work on Daku’s adventure tours started by Tenzing.

I often arranged for Tenzing to accompany me on my various tours abroad on behalf of Air India to popularise trekking in the Himalayas. I found his company most enjoyable, especially his ready wit. Though he was not educated, he managed every situation confidently and spoke English quite well, though not very fluently.

Once in Mumbai, I invited him to address members of the International Tourism Council. He started beautifully: ‘‘Several years ago I was in Bombay. It was a beautiful and clean place then. I walked along Marine Drive where the sea waves were beating against the wall of Marine Drive. There was no sign of rubbish anywhere. Today Bombay is full of rubbish.’’ He continued non-stop for about 15 minutes. At the end there was a standing ovation. Nobody had expected Tenzing to be such an orator.

On May 15, 1985, I went to Darjeeling to preside over the Himalayan Mountaineering and Tourism Meet. It was being held at the invitation of Tenzing. Harish Sarin was still in Kathmandu as India’s ambassador and was not feeling too well. In his absence, as Vice-President of IMF, I was asked to preside. Many eminent mountaineers from all over the world, including Sir Edmund Hillary, had come to Darjeeling. It was there that I had my last meeting with Tenzing. He appeared weak, sad and rather lonely. Daku was now busy with her trekking business all the time. Tenzing’s children were all away in USA. Tenzing was quiet and withdrawn.

He died towards the middle of 1986. Eight years later, a large statue of Tenzing Norgay was installed near the Sherpa Coffee House. Sir Edmund Hillary and I went to Darjeeling for the occasion. It was a very touching and sentimental function. Sir Edmund unveiled the marble block and formally unveiled the statue. The HMI, which he created and carefully nursed for more than three decades, will keep his name alive for years to come. In fact, not only his statue, not only the HMI but the queen of hill stations itself is today regarded by many as Tenzing’s Darjeeling.

(The writer is chairman of the Himalayan Environment Trust. His book Sherpas — The Himalayan Legends is just out)