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This is an archive article published on January 23, 2004

Remnant of the Raj

It's right out of a picture-postcard — a red-roofed, white-walled cottage tucked away picturesquely amidst a cluster of pines with a ni...

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It’s right out of a picture-postcard — a red-roofed, white-walled cottage tucked away picturesquely amidst a cluster of pines with a nine-hole golf course fronting it invitingly. Established in 1918 by the former British planters of Munnar for their recreational needs, the Kundale Club continues to serve their Indian successors while maintaining its distinctly colonial aura.

Vestiges of the Raj are very much in evidence here. The original hand-painted posters announcing social get-togethers and competitions are still on display, having been meticulously preserved. Adding to the antiquity of the club are hoary shikar trophies and photographs, many bearing the date of shooting as well as the location — the Brits did have an eye for detail! Other reminders of the British era are the antique lamps, the ancient muzzle-loader mounted over the fireplace, the period furniture, the quaint bar with its high bar-stools and, of course, the illustrated Hangover Chart offering useful tips to the tippler.

The most evocative relic, however, is a 1918 photograph of the club’s founders, a group of elegantly attired British planters and their wives, the ladies quite prim and conspicuous in their broad-brimmed hats, full-sleeved blouses and ankle-length skirts.

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Unlike other planters’ clubs, the Kundale Club is not affiliated to any club — as the notice-board at the entrance proudly proclaims, flaunting the club’s exclusivity. Consequently, non-members can use its facilities only if they are introduced by a member. But what makes the club unique is that it has never had a telephone in its 85-year-old history, and has no intention of acquiring one either. Further, cell phones don’t work here.

Indeed, there’s no better place than Munnar to unwind in peace far away from the madding crowd. One can laze for hours on the velvety grass soaking in the sunshine, or just potter around the sprawling golf course, admiring the serene sylvan surroundings.

At dusk as the golfers trudge back indoors for a sundowner, a few gaur usually saunter on to the golf course to relish the succulent grass — a ‘‘tradition’’ that continues unchanged from the early days. Yes, the local planters pursue recreation and wildlife conservation with equal fervour — as did their British predecessors.

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