The art of sipping a cuppa

Just as the ceremony of drinking tea is much more than an idealised form of drinking, so too, the form of the teaware, tea utensils and te...

Just as the ceremony of drinking tea is much more than an idealised form of drinking, so too, the form of the teaware, tea utensils and teapots are more than a receptacle for tea leaves and water. They have evolved into containers of unusual ideas in the hands of craftsmen and artists, expressing a rare genius.The name chai revolved from the Chinese cha, came to be known as tea to most of the western world. The ancient brew has long been linked to formal ceremony and highly evolved rituals.

In China, where the beverage was first created, tea drinking developed alongside Buddhism. It became closely connected with religion, as Buddhist monks integrated tea with meditation practices. The distinguished scholar Lu Yu, the patron saint of tea, published the tea classic Cha Ching in 780 AD, disclosing everything there was to know about tea. In the process of his research he discovered a spirituality in the preparation, drinking and appreciation of tea. He found in the tea ritual the same harmony and order that prevail in all other aspects of life and set a standard of practice, a tea code. This brought to tea an ideal, out of which emerged the Japanese tea ceremony.

In Japan, tea evokes a tranquil spirit as powdered green tea is reverently whisked in a ceramic bowl for the tea ceremony. Elaborate rituals dictate every aspect of the ceremony from the way tea is whisked and served, to how tea utensils are used and admired. The ritual aims to create a quiet interlude with serene spaces and monastic settings, in which host and guest strive for spiritual enlightenment and harmony. Practised in a plain, thatched hut, simply furnished with unpretentious utensils and no adornments besides a simple flower arrangement or single painting or calligraphy, the tea ceremony captures the essentials of Japanese philosophy and artistic beauty. It fuses with Zen philosophy to form one single spirit: with the ideals of purity, harmony, respect and simplicity.

Story continues below this ad

The story of the modern tea industry in India is inextricably wound with the British taste for tea. While tea had been cultivated in China for centuries, it was not until the mid-19th century that India joined the tea growing industry. Though tea plants have always grown here, its use as beverage gained popularity only with the coming of the British. The monies the British spent on tea, porcelain and skills from China drained its treasury of silver. Queen Victoria realised that growing tea â€˜â€˜at homeâ€™â€™ in Indi (now a colony) would prove to be in Britainâ€™s favour. Thus, the story of the British cultivation of tea in India, begins with the annexation of Assam in 1838. This simultaneously resulted in a loss of Chinaâ€™s monopoly on the tea trade.

It is, thus, a rather modern import, a legacy of the Raj which remained after the British left. In fact, it was so enthusiastically adopted, that India and tea have become synonymous. In less than 200 years, India became the worldâ€™s largest producer of tea, feeding both the European and domestic markets.

Embodying rare grace and beauty, eastern tea ceremonies inspired unique teaware. Exquisitely crafted porcelain and ceramic teaware came into being. In China, tiny clay pots enabled one to savour the earthy taste of tea, as if it were a rare wine. In Japan, artisans create stark and simple tea bowls. And the teas of India may be served in tea cups made of silver or in earthen pots, the kulhars for the ethnic taste.

Although tea is still sipped from delicate bowls in the Far East, teaware in the West evolved to include handles, saucers and teapots dipped in exquisite glazes. Tea parlors in Europe became attractive counterparts to pubs which served only alcoholic beverages. Distinctive traditions in tea evolved over centuries, influencing not only tea ceramics and utensils but also many related arts, like gardening, landscaping and interior settings.

Story continues below this ad

In its journey across nations, tea has enriched cultures with its infectious appeal. Wherever adopted, the tea tradition becomes so embedded in native culture, that it remains virtually unrecognisable as an imported custom.

(The author is a Chicago-based economist and art lover, currently serving as docent at the Asian Art Museum. As part of the German Festival in India 2000-2001, sheâ€™s presenting a slide-lecture on The World of Tea Aesthetics & Ideals: A Bridge to Cultures, Crafts and Traditions, at the NGMA on December 21, 5:30 pm)