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This is an archive article published on December 7, 1998

The Crying Game

As you approach Goribi's tiny stall located in the Chhatrapati Shivaji Market, it is tough to believe that the nation is going through an...

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As you approach Goribi’s tiny stall located in the Chhatrapati Shivaji Market, it is tough to believe that the nation is going through an onion crisis. For spread across two hand-carts and almost completely filling up her little shop are hordes of the not-so-humble vegetable that has found mention even in international newspapers for giving Indian consumers a tough time.

But point this out to Goribi Baba Khan, who has been selling onions for the past 50 years now, and she painstakingly holds out a few to show you the extent of the rot that has set in. Damp and shrivelled, the contents of at least one hand-cart are almost ready for the garbage dump. “I have spread them out in the sun for them to dry but to no avail. And if the onions in the second hand-cart do not sell by tomorrow, they will also begin to rot,” she despairs.

Born and brought up in Chennai, Goribi came to Pune some five decades ago when economic compulsions drove her family and her out of their hometown. Since then, she has been selling onions and potatoes at the market. “I remember onions being sold for 25 paise a kg when I began. In all these years, there have been times when prices soared and sales dropped but none as bad as this. Either the onions remain unsold or we are forced to dispose them off at a loss to prevent them from rotting on the carts”.

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As if on cue, a customer marches up to her to show a bagful of onions purchased a day ago that have already rotted, and demands an exchange. With a helpless shrug, Goribi replaces them. “From selling 20 sacks of onions a day, we have now come down to one or two,” she adds.

Competition is rife at the congested little vegetable market, with three to four onion-sellers trying their best to incite the odd customer seeking onions. Prices range from Rs. 12 to 25 a kg, depending on the onions’ quality. “My son gets four to five days’ stock from the Chhatrapati Shivaji Market Yard. And while this saves us daily transport fare, the unsold stock rots easily. Sometimes, when the quality is really bad, we get just two days’ stock.”

Goribi’s day begins at 6 a.m. at her home near Guru Nanak Nagar. She finishes household work to reach the market by 9 a.m. and is there till almost 9 p.m. A short break in the afternoon suffices for her dabba.

However, much like the price of her wares, Goribi’s life story is also one that is likely to induce tears. With a physically handicapped husband and two sons who have never held stable jobs or contributed much to the household, the family burden has never been lifted from Goribi’s ageing shoulders. “I earn about Rs. 2,000 per month. Out of this, 150 go towards the stall rent and the rest to feed the family of 12. Three grandchildren are studying; their annual fees total Rs. 1,200. Another grandson failed last year, so I had him taken out of school. He now handles a vegetable cart in this market and shares my burden somewhat”.

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The only bright spot in her life seems to be the yearly trips to Chennai, a product of great financial juggling. “The fare itself is Rs. 600. Then I have to take gifts for all my relatives. But perhaps this year, I should just carry some bags of onions for them. That should be a much-appreciated gift,” she chortles, making the other stall-owners lapse into guffaws of laughter as well.

And so life goes on for Goribi. A life much like her onions, whence you peel layer after layer to ultimately uncover nothing.

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