The Old Jungle way

Bengal. It was christened Taman Negara after Malaysia attained independence from colonial rule in 1957. Formerly called the King George V National Park,the park was established under the British in 1925 as the Gunung Tahan Game Reserve,named after Mount Tahan,the tallest peak in the reserve. The park is a treasure trove for any naturalist as you find a thriving eco-system here with 10,000 plant species,1,50,000 insects,675 birds and over 270 reptiles.

Evening on the first day and we had geared up for our night safari—a jungle walk to observe the small insects and nocturnal creatures of the forest. The weather was clammy as it had rained the night before. The song of the crickets and the sounds of the forest were toying with my senses. Let’s just say I am not one for creepy crawlies.
Armed with a torchlight and a pair of sneakers,we entered the jungle walkway that extended for 2 km inside the forest. “Be absolutely silent. That way you have better chances of seeing some action,” said Zani,a park guide for over 10 years. I trod cautiously on the wet path,careful not to step on to some ‘action’.

The moonlight filtered through the thick canopy,enough for us to see the outline of the tree tops. “It is too humid tonight. Not nice weather to see insects. They are as smart as us. When not good weather they do not come out,” Zani said in broken English. I admit I let out a small sigh of relief. Just then,I felt something wet on the back of my neck. “Zani,Zani,” I called out,softly. Only to realise it was a dead leaf that had landed on me. “Look,” he said,focussing his light on a tree trunk. It was a long striped spider which looked rather harmless. “Don’t go too close. They jump very well and have a nasty bite.” A few insects later,we were back for a good night’s rest at the Mutiara Taman Negara,a five-star luxury resort situated in the national park.

Next morning’s attractions included a ‘canopy walk’. Other activities you could opt for include rapid shooting,fishing,sitting by the serene waterfalls at Lata Berkoh,8 km away from the resort and exploring limestone caves of Gua Telinga (Ear Cave). The more adventurous can go for a week-long jungle trek.
We kept up a steady pace through the 45-minute trek into the rain forest,as Zani threw around trivia about the species of fauna and the indigenous plant life. We came to the walkway made from wooden planks that lead up to a cabana,a wooden hut,from where the ‘canopy walk’ begins.

Just as we were about to start walking on the ropeway,it started pouring. “Hurry,if it rains harder,they will close the walk way,” said Zani. To come so far and not walk on tree tops would be a damp squib indeed. So I doubled my pace and reached our first stop,a narrow ropeway held in place by two steel cables,suspended 45m above ground,which linked one tree to another. The ropeway covered 530m and makeshift wooden platforms had been put up across its length. This was the world’s longest canopy walk. And I was on it.

I stepped carefully on the 10 m long narrow ropeway,trying to keep the jitters down. I took the second step a little more confidently,a third and then a fourth I was off at a steady pace. The ropeway swayed lightly from side to side,wobbled up and down with the force of other people on it,forcing me to look into the green abyss below every now and then.
The views are breathtaking. I got a panoramic view of the rain forest,its tallest trees,and a river in the distance cutting across the green. If you are lucky,you can also sees the giant flying squirrel with its furry red tail or the green monitor lizard,climbing up trees in search of food.

The 30-minute walk is the best way to see the rain forest and understand the importance of treasuring mother nature’s gift to us. “There has been no felling in this area for over 100 years,” says Zani.
After the canopy walk,we headed for the Trenggan river for some rapid shooting. Don’t get alarmed,we simply sat on a locally-made wooden boat,strapped on a life vest and hung on for dear life as the boat cuts through the rapids at a great speed. The purpose of this activity: get completely soaked. The more number of people,the greater the fun.

Along the river bank,we also met a small group of aborigines,called the Orang Asli (original people),who are dependent on the forest for their survival. Over the years,increased contact with the outside world has changed them. So visitors shouldn’t be surprised to see a few wearing Nike T-shirts or sneakers. We were given a free demonstration on using blow pipes,an effective weapon,which they use for hunting monkeys. The brain is the most delicious part,we were told.
I quailed a little,but the peace around,the company of the jungle folk and the white sands along the bank of the Tembeling,was the perfect ending.

FAST FACTS
GETTING THERE
You can catch daily flights between Delhi and Kuala Lumpur offered by Malaysian Airlines. A coach departs daily at 8.45 am from the Crown Plaza Mutiara,KL,to the Kuala Tembeling Jetty. From here,a ferry ride will take you to Mutiara Taman Negara resort,which takes approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
The best time to visit is between April and June,before the peak tourist season begins.
STAYING
There is only one resort on the national park premises called Mutiara Taman Negara. (www.mutiarahotels.com)
ACTIVITIES
There is an option of seven activities to choose from,each requiring a minimum of four persons. Although they will still accommodate you,if you are less. There are activities like night jungle walk,jungle trekking and canopy walks,boat trips to Lata Berkoh,cave exploration at Gua Telinga (Ear caves),rapid shooting at Kuala Trenggan,white water rafting requires a minimum of six persons and visiting aboriginal settlements. The cost for the activities ranges from Rs 630- Rs 2,200.