When temptation bowled monks over

Couples under umbrellas share coconuts and utter sweet nothings with an eye on the scoreboard. Urchins hang dangerously on the walls to catch the action on the field and, later, imitate Mendis and Murali in impromptu tennis ball games at the small clearing on the top of the fort. Auto drivers brush shoulders with office-goers as they have pool lunches while discussing the game.

Odd men out

There is a group of three men sharing an umbrella that stands out from the rest of the crowd. They are Buddhist monks in striking saffron robes on a rare field trip. The eldest of them is Phanagratne who has serene face and deep voice. The other two rarely open their mouths as the 40-year-old happens to be the front man who is designated to deal with the surprise journalistic query.

As it turns out, the monk troika has travelled from Matara, and for them it is the first experience of live cricket action in Galle. “We have a TV set at monastery and whenever we get time, we watch cricket. The youngsters also play the game but I am too old for that,” says Phanagratne, who confesses the one main reason for the one-hour journey from Matara to Galle in a rickety bus was to see Sachin Tendulkar in action.

The relaxed expression on their faces fails to convey the strain their bodies have suffered to be on top of the fort. “We got up early in the morning at around 4. And because of that, we reached here after lunch and since we have more work to do, we will leave after tea,” he says.

The pleasant face never quite loses its smile, though, there happens to be mild shake of head when he talks about his Tsumani experience. “Our place was flooded and it rendered our TV set useless. That meant no cricket action for us. Eventually, we got a new television,” he says, as he speaks about watching IPL and asks an uncomfortable question: “What happened to India during the Asia Cup final?” One hems and haws before meekly uttering “Mendis” to a roar of laughter.

It’s tea time and the monks leave towards the bus station right adjacent to the stadium. But there are many more on the ramparts, enjoying the excitement of an engrossing Test. No seat numbers, no uncomfortable bucket seats or uncalled for obstructions, sprawling on the Galle Fort walls, watching cricket was never such a pleasure.