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This is an archive article published on November 21, 2006

When the kurinji blooms

But the celestial spectacle leaves Munnar more polluted

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Munnar, Kerala’s premier hill resort, is currently in the throes of a craze — sparked off by a shrub locally called the kurinji. Commonly found in the vicinity of the town, what makes the shrub unique is that it flowers only once in 12 years, beautifying the hills with its myriad mauve blossoms.

Right now the kurinji is abloom again. And thanks to a publicity blitzkrieg, Munnar is virtually besieged by tourists eager to view the floral phenomenon. Never mind if hotel rooms are filthy from overcrowding and continuous use. Or if a substantial number of tourists are forced to spend nights under

the stars for want of accommodation, blithely polluting wayside streams. Or if the town’s roads are a motorist’s and pedestrian’s nightmare. Or if its streets shock one by their total lack of sanitation, littered as they are with garbage.

Somehow these deterrents don’t discourage tourists from overrunning Munnar. Nor can they be blamed. For in its reckless zeal to promote tourism at any cost in this ecologically fragile hill resort, the tourism department has virtually put a halo on the kurinji. ‘It is not a mere shrub. It is a part of our culture,’ signboards loftily proclaim as one approaches the town.

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The sheer irony of it hits one hard. Aren’t forests that induce vital rainfall a part of our culture, too? Then why have we allowed them to shrink so alarmingly, resulting in erratic rainfall and widespread drought? And why do the authorities blatantly continue to ignore the deforestation taking place in Munnar and its environs under the pretext of development? Opportunism and apathy are no doubt the answer.

‘Take back memories. Leave no trace’, urges another prominent signboard. Memories of being hounded by beggars and touts? Of gingerly picking one’s way through cratered roads dirtied by betel-stains? Of rapacious auto- and taxi-drivers and guides? As for leaving no trace, the domestic tourist fiendishly delights in leaving his ‘imprint’ wherever he goes!

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