Thanks to President A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, we all relived a short part of that journey. A train ride that altered the course of a man and then the destiny of a nation. The steam engine was of 1947 vintage; just like it was then.Boarding at Pentrich Station (on June 7, 1893, Mahatma Gandhi boarded it from Durban), it took us about 15 minutes to reach here, through mountains and streams. No one knows the exact spot where that life-altering incident occurred. So, based on the length of the train he was travelling in and gauging where the First Class compartment might have been, a granite column has been erected: ‘‘In the vicinity of this place, M.K. Gandhi was evicted from a First Class coupe on the night of June 7, 1893. This incident changed the course of his life. He took up the fight against racial oppression. His active non-violence started from this date.’’Welcome to South Africa where Nelson Mandela is spoken of in the same breath as the Mahatma. Both legends are alive in a new South Africa that makes it a point not to forget. Keeping this in mind, the provincial KwaZulu Natal government and the Government of South Africa are going all out to celebrate the centenary year of the Phoenix Settlement, a community the Mahatma founded in 1904.For those who know, all this is a tribute to a chequered past. For those who don’t, South Africa has managed to brand its freedom. The concept behind the Constitutional Court, the highest court of the land, is fascinating. As is the way it is being publicised for all. Opened to the public in March 2004, the Constitutional Hill is the new home of the highest court of the land. It is also the site of Number Four, Johannesburg’s notorious Old Fort Prison Complex, where thousands were brutalised, as were many political activists, including Gandhi (four times from 1908 to 1913) and Mandela.Their black-and-white photographs adorn the walls, films run continuously, and there’s also the wall where visitors are encouraged to read messages and write their own: a record of what democracy means to the first generation of free South Africans.Steeped in symbolism, when Charles Correa put his seal of approval on the final design (he was chairman of the selection panel) even he may not have imagined it would turn out to be one of the funkiest courts on the planet. Animal hide for judges’ backrest, carpets designed to reflect the colourful African custom of weaving cloth between branches of trees, and a foyer that is naturally lit with slanting columns— yet another metaphor for trees under which villagers traditionally congregated to discuss matters.For working professionals, there is a packaged night tour and come October 2, plans are afoot to light up the entire court in such a way that it can be seen from all over, in fact, from the moment you fly into Johannesburg.Purists may frown at the idea of a Brand Gandhi. The souvenir shop at Robben Island had someone squeak: ‘‘It’s popcorn history—like having a gift shop at Auschwitz.’’ While others rush to pick up that logo printed T-shirt and wrapping paper, at least the South African Department of Tourism isn’t complaining. For as global tourism shrank 1.3 per cent, 2003 saw visitors to SA increase by 4.2 per cent. And among its 6,300 tourist sites, there are five new world heritage sites.Meanwhile, at Phoenix Settlement, President Kalam has just made two announcements. India will help set up a cultural centre at Pietermaritzburg and an entrepreneurial centre at the Phoenix Settlement. With that, it’s time for India’s First Citizen to wrap up his Africa sojourn. Volunteers get cracking to clear the way. Their Gandhi T-shirts say it all: OUR GIFT TO THE WORLD. Just so that you don’t get confused, both the South African and Indian flags are printed on them.
